I love hot cross buns (and one of my guilty secrets is how much I love those that come from Sainsbury's bakery). Last year I made my own for the first time using the
River Cottage Bread recipe. Although delicious (and I'm sure authentic) they were definately a fruited bread rather than the bread/cake hybrid that the supermarkets have trained us to expect from this seasonal treat.
So this year I tried again and went in search of an even more enriched
bread dough to act as the basis of this years buns. I
needed something more buttery, brioche-y, less parsimoniously british to mark the end of Lent and the beginning of the Easter feasting.
I love Richard Bertinet's recipes and have successfully made brioche using his recipe a number of times. Although those are delicious I wanted something slightly less buttery where the addition of fruit and spices would add to the flavour rather than detracting from the gloriously rich butteriness of the brioche. Bertinet's kitchen is based in Bath and his book Crust has a version of the famous Bath Buns - brought to Bath by a french baker in the 1700's and anglicised. Bertinet's recipe for these are an enriched dough (like brioche) but with a smaller proportion of butter and eggs than are in his brioche recipe, so this seemed a good comprimise to act as the base of my Hot Cross Buns.
To me a hot cross bun needs to be soft in the middle with a good proportion of fruit and spices. The spices are particularly important with the sweetness of cinnamon and nutmeg along with the warmth of ginger and a hint of clove giving a depth of flavour. These 'Christmassy' flavours found in mince pies, Christmas cake and Stollen also provide a nice connection between celebrations of the birth of death and resurrection of Christ.
The other element of at Hot Cross Bun I enjoy is the sticky, sugary glaze and the contrast of the white cross against the brown bun. I also like the contrast in textures this provides with the flour and water cross being slightly chewy against the softness of the bun. We happened to have some sugar syrup in our cocktail cabinet which proved to be a good glaze, but a stock syrup of sugar dissolved in an equal weight of water would work well.
The resulting Hot Cross buns were much more what I was looking for than those I made last year. I loved that the spices formed a coloured swirl within the bun rather than being evenly distributed, making them as pretty inside as they were outside. The spicing was exactly what I was looking for (although if I'd had an orange some zest wouldn't have gone amiss). They take some time to make but definately worth the effort if you want a relaxed day pottering about the kitchen. I'm not sure the ferment is strictly necessary and not using it would reduce the time needed by 2 hours or so - just add the ferment ingredients into the standard dough.
Mr Vitty may still prefer the Sainsbury's version, but he has dubious taste (afterall he married me!) and I'll definately be making these in the future.
Ferment:
125 g Strong White Flour
125 g Water
3g Dried Yeast
Dough:
7 g Dried Yeast
375 g Strong White Flour
All the ferment
125 g Unsalted Butter chopped into chunks
60 g Caster Sugar
150 g Milk
110 g Eggs (2 large eggs)
7g Salt
110 g Chopped Mixed Peel
170 g Sultanas
3 Teaspoons Cinnamon
2 Teaspoons Mixed Spice (shop bought and including ginger and cloves)
Grating of Nutmeg
Paste for forming the cross
100 g Flour
100 ml Water
Splash of sugar syrup
Egg Wash:
1 egg
Pinch of salt
Glaze:
Sugar Syrup
Method:
Make the ferment by mixing together all the ingredients really well in a large bowl. Cover with a baking cloth and leave in a warm place for 2-2.5 hours
When ready to make the dough mix together the yeast, flour, ferment, butter, sugar, milk, eggs and salt. Work the dough using Richard Bertinet's
slap and fold method or in a stand mixer until it is smooth. Lightly flour the work surface and form the dough into a ball. Put the dough into a lightly floured bowl, cover with a baking cloth and leave to rest for 1 hour in a warm place.
Mix the fruit together with the spices in a small bowl. Take the dough out of the bowl and stretch it out on your work surface. Sprinkle the fruit and spices over the dough and fold the dough in on itself a few times until the fruit is incorporated. The fruit may make a bid for freedom but keep folding it into the dough. Form the dough into a ball and leave to rest for another hour.
Lightly flour the work surface and turn out the dough. Cut the dough into pieces about 100 g in weight and form into a ball. Put the buns onto a greased baking tray well spaced apart to give them space to rise. Cover with a baking cloth and put back in a warm place for 2- 2.5 hours until they have doubled in size.
In the meantime make the egg wash by beating together the egg and salt and the sugar syrup by mixing the water and flour into a paste. Add a dash of sugar syrup to the flour/water paste but be careful not to add too much. The paste needs to be a consistency that you can pipe a clear cross shape onto the top of the buns.
Preheat the oven to 180 oC
Make a cup of tea and sit down for a few minutes to drink it.
Once the buns have doubled in size use a pastry brush to glaze them with the egg wash. Put the paste for the crosses into a piping bag and pipe a cross shape onto each bun (I didn't use a piping nozzle- somehow however many of these I have I don't have the right size - a bit like knitting needles). Put the buns into the oven for about 20 minutes or until the buns have turned brown on top and are golden underneath.
Glaze with the sugar syrup and allow the buns to cool on a wire rack.
Make another cup of tea and enjoy a warm hot cross bun with plenty of butter.
Not even we could eat 12 buns in one sitting. They will keep overnight wrapped in silver foil, just refresh them in a hot oven (about 200
oC) for about 10 minutes before eating. They also freeze well in freezer bags. Just defrost overnight and refresh them in the oven.