Monday, 14 December 2015

A matter of taste: Bitter

A good gin and tonic is a careful balance of the sweet gin, sour lime and bitter tonic.  Bitterness is also a vital component of the flavour of beer, sprouts and coffee.  The bitterness of tonic water is due to quinine - a chemical which like many bitter compounds is poisonous (fortunately you'd have to drink alot of G&T before it made you ill!).  Perhaps because it prevented us being poisoned humans can detect very low levels of bitter tastes, we are up to 100 times more sensitive to bitter than to salt, sour, sweet or umami. The association of bitterness with poison may also be why we tend to dislike foods that are too bitter.

Image result for gin and tonic



Bitter compounds come in a variety of shapes and sizes. These can be grouped into 5 different classes of compounds which have similar chemical properties.   In order to sense this diversity of compounds our taste cells have a variety of different sensors - as many as 80 different types. Everyone has a different combination and number of these sensors which influence the ability of different people to detect bitter tastes.

Some of the bitter compounds have similar shapes to those that we sense as sweet.  This means that compounds like artificial sweeteners don't always taste just 'sweet'.  When I eat or drink something containing the artificial sweetner Aspartame I can taste a bitter component and therefore dislike lots of low-sugar foods. 

Because we don't tend to like bitterness we try and reduce the bitter tastes in our food.  Yet some bitter compounds are good for us.  Some of them have anticancer properties and can help protect against heart disease.  In reducing bitterness we are losing these beneficial chemicals from our diets.  One class of these beneficial bitter compounds are glucosinolates.  These are responsible for the bitterness of brassicas like sprouts, cabbages and cauliflowers.  This has led to the breeding of vegetables with higher levels of glucosinolates.  One of these is Beneforte broccoli - developed at the John Innes Center and Institute of Food Research in Norwich.

 

background image of broccoli
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Bitter foods are also essential in creating a balanced plate of food, often counterbalancing sweetness or cutting through the fattiness of foods.  Given that we know most of our food isn't poisonous perhaps we need to learn to embrace the bitterness of foods - for our health and our palate.

Tuesday, 1 December 2015

Stir Up Sunday

Stir up, we beseech thee, O Lord, the wills of thy faithful people; that they, plenteously bringing forth the fruit of good works, may of thee be plenteously rewarded; through Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen

This is the Anglican collect for the 25th Sunday after Trinity - more commonly known as Stir up Sunday and the traditional weekend for making Christmas pudding.   Everyone seems to have a different trigger for the start of Christmas.  For retailers it seems to be immediately after the August Bank Holiday (whereas for Mr Vitty it's about 4pm on Christmas Eve).  

 
Wet and Dry Ingredients


For me Christmas really begins with the making of christmas pudding.  This year I did actually make it on the traditional weekend.  The weather was predicted to be awful, (cold, wet, windy) - so ideal for putting on soppy films, getting the fire going and steaming a pudding for eight hours.  But this not only marks the start of Christmas but a calorie laden baking and cooking extravaganza that includes stollen, borrochuelos, hot water crust pastry pork pie, and of course Christmas cake and mince pies.

The Anglican prayer is exhorting us to do good works to benefit those around us and be rewarded in heaven.  The reward for a day of pudding making will be on Christmas Day when a blue flamed pudding is eaten with rum sauce and shared with family (if they're lucky).

Delia's mix


The recipe I use for my Christmas pudding is Delia's. It's really easy, tastes great and keeps really well.  In recent years I've used plastic pudding basins with lids as they're much easier than faffing about with foil, paper and string.  This is also the time of year my steamer comes into its own.  It makes the steaming really easy, just change the water every hour and let it do its thing.



Ready to steam

8 hours later